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Stella McCartney’s show featured Michael Jackson’s daughter seated between two members of The Beatles in the front row. Behind the scenes, a member of the Spice Girls interacted with Charlotte Rampling. The mood board included David Byrne’s ideas, and the runway showcased a trenchcoat made of vegan-friendly apple leather and a swimsuit decorated with recycled aluminium sequins. Kate Moss’s daughter also graced the catwalk, wearing a turquoise minidress crafted from responsibly sourced alpaca. As models paraded, an environmental manifesto narrated by Olivia Colman and Helen Mirren played in the background. All in all, it was a unique and unmistakable Stella McCartney production.

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“Well, I mean, we’re in a bit of a state here, aren’t we?” said McCartney of the slogan vest that read “About Fucking Time”. “I always want the platform of Stella McCartney to have an environmental message. I am here to remind people that this is one of the most harmful industries. But I’m not here to make people depressed and scared. I want to celebrate Mother Earth and all of her creatures and to remind us all to be conscious of that, but at the same time, I want it to be an uplifting experience.”

McCartney is determined that the planet-wrecking version of fashion should not get a monopoly on glamour. Sustainability, she says, should be invisible on the runway. The show began with a rose-pink trouser suit, unbuttoned with nothing underneath, redolent of Rampling-esque sauciness, worn under a powder-puff faux-fur coat that Alexis Colby would have coveted.

There were lashings of glossy “leather”, made from a bio-based alternative that uses agricultural waste and recycled material. A cobweb of lead-free crystals over bare skin channelled this Paris fashion week’s lascivious appetite for naked dressing. A lip motif on a scant silk dress represented womanhood, sensuality and the voice of Mother Earth, but “the clothes should never be compromised”, she said backstage.

Rei Kawakubo, the revered 81-year-old designer of Comme des Garçons, said at her show a few days ago that she felt “anger against everything in the world, especially against myself”, but McCartney refuses to go down that road.

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We all experience anger at times, but I do not view anger as a productive form of energy. I believe that anger does not contribute positively. Our focus is on finding solutions, not on destructive actions like deforestation for animal farming or the use of plastic in our sequins.

The luxury giant LVMH supports her brand, and she describes them as being receptive to her sustainability message. She believes in influencing change from within the industry and sees LVMH’s investment in her business as a strong statement to the industry.

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From the very beginning, tailoring has been consistently featured in McCartney’s work. The designer strives to revive the ideal Savile Row suit, which has a commanding, oversized presence this season, reminiscent of David Byrne’s style. To create the perfect suit, McCartney begins with a man’s suit as a foundation, but as a woman designing for women, she is aware of the specific positioning on the hips for the pants and understands the desired comfort when placing hands in the pockets.

Following the performance, Paris Jackson engaged in conversation with both Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr. Meanwhile, Mel C embraced the designer. Linda McCartney’s legacy was also present, with drape-sleeve dresses inspired by her wardrobe. The tweed jacket featured a crosshatched pattern reminiscent of a garden path from the designer’s childhood home in the countryside. The family connections continued onto the catwalk with Lila Moss, whom McCartney had known since the day she was born. McCartney expressed her joy and maternal feelings at seeing Lila on the runway.

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Source: theguardian.com