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After the devastating wildfire that occurred in West Maui last summer, Miriam Keo started to doubt various aspects of her life. This included her high-paying union job at a luxurious resort, the heavy dependence on tourism and imported food on the island, and her personal role as a Native Hawaiian in the reconstruction of Lahaina. Central to her contemplation was the issue of food (meaʻai) and land (Āina) – who has authority over it and the significance it holds.

Keo, who worked at a hotel for 16 years, recently left his job to join a composting company, citing the pandemic and a recent fire as reasons for his change of heart. He no longer wishes to cater to tourists and believes this goes against the wishes of his ancestors. Keo is determined to be a responsible caretaker for his community and the land, and wants to set an example for his children by promoting sustainable practices, including in the food industry.

Keo was one of the 11,000 individuals who were forced to leave their homes and experienced severe emotional distress following the devastating fire on August 8th. The fire destroyed the historic town of Lahaina and claimed the lives of 100 people.

The survivors, many of whom are facing financial struggles and food insecurity, express gratitude towards the Red Cross for managing the emergency shelter program, which includes three meals a day from a buffet. However, numerous individuals are still stranded in hotels and are limited to a repetitive menu without traditional Hawaiian dishes like poi or luʻau, or popular local dishes that represent Maui’s diverse culture, such as pork and watercress soup. The strict regulations regarding food preparation and the inability to eat with family and friends have had both physical and emotional effects.

Keo expressed his frustration with the inability to cook and constantly eating the same dishes, none of which were traditional to their culture due to Americanization. He emphasized the significance of food in their identity, as it is a reflection of their heritage passed down from their ancestors. Losing this aspect of their culture makes them feel diminished.

Anastasia Arao-Tagayuna, who is currently looking for appropriate housing, expressed that the Christmas dinner buffet featuring turkey was challenging for her family, as they typically eat ham hock stew.

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She expressed, “Food holds great significance for us, therefore, not being able to consume kalo, poi, or any of the customary dishes we were raised on is truly difficult.” She added, “When your stomach is unsatisfied, it affects your overall well-being.”

Taro, also known as kalo, is a type of starchy root vegetable that has been cultivated for centuries and is considered a sacred crop by Native Hawaiians.

The meals provided by the Red Cross are influenced by the island’s strong tourism culture. The head chefs at international hotels tend to favor American and European cuisine over traditional Hawaiian ingredients.

However, certain community organizations are actively striving to ensure that survivors have access to nutritious, environmentally-friendly food options. This is a vital aspect of a larger plan to combat food insecurity and prevent individuals from leaving their homes due to financial constraints.

In the previous month, Keo was given a package of food supplies at their recently established, interim residence by the Maui Hub. This service provides farmboxes that were created during the lockdown to support local farmers who rely on tourism. Finances are limited, so the assortment of items in the box, such as ulu hummus, avocados, bananas, kalo, and bok choy, were greatly appreciated as a present.

Keo explained that they do not currently have a dining table, so they gather on the floor to eat and share stories.

Maui Hub is experiencing success and has successfully raised funds to assist approximately one hundred displaced families by providing them with free groceries for the next year. The main focus is on helping multigenerational Native families who have children enrolled in Hawaiian language immersion school. “These are the individuals who speak Hawaiian, attend council meetings, and participate in land court proceedings – they are families that we cannot afford to lose if we want to keep Lahaina land in the hands of Lahaina residents,” stated Autumn Ness, co-founder of Maui Hub.

There is a movement, which began before the wildfire, to reestablish a connection with the land and Native Hawaiian heritage by utilizing sustainable farming practices for traditional foods and medicines grown within the community.

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Mikey Burke, who recently moved into a 12-month rental with his family, shared that every evening in the hotel dining room, they would imagine the meals they would prepare and enjoy together once they had a stable place to live. He also mentioned gaining 20lbs from eating food he didn’t desire and expressed how satisfying it feels to finally have a kitchen.

Burke and her spouse Rob are currently attempting to devise a plan for rebuilding their house, as it was not adequately insured. They are also trying to handle their mortgage payments without accumulating more debt. Their four sons are enrolled in an immersion program, and the first delivery from Maui Hub included various local foods such as kalo candy, Māmaki tea, sweet potatoes, star fruit, and cabbage. Burke used these ingredients to prepare a traditional dish that is typically served with rice, using ground beef, tomatoes, and soy sauce.

According to Burke, hamburger cabbage, a dish similar to pork and watercress soup, is not a traditional Hawaiian meal. However, it is a popular comfort food among local families and embodies the diverse ethnicities and cultures found in Lahaina.

Over 33% of the residents in Lahaina were of Asian descent, primarily Filipino, with slightly over 10% identifying as Latino or Native Hawaiian.

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Maui Hub is a component of a larger movement led by Indigenous peoples to reclaim land and create a circular food system that promotes food independence, climate resilience, soil quality, and public health. This also aims to decrease Maui’s unsustainable reliance on tourism, which contributes to the housing crisis and worsens water scarcity.

In certain instances, initiatives led by the community following the fire have included a wider perspective on the role of food and agriculture in the rebuilding of West Maui. This has sparked important discussions about the current state of affairs.

Nāpili Park is a leafy green space in a residential neighborhood, about 10 miles north of Lahaina, set back from the coastline.

The day after the fire, Kaipo Kekona, a leader in the Indigenous Hawaiian community and a farmer, established a temporary resource center by setting up a tent. This served as a central location for organizing donations and providing aid to the hundreds of Lahaina residents who had fled for safety. Volunteers distributed supplies from nearby islands to those who had lost everything, well before official assistance arrived.

Over time, the initial tent transformed into a small community of tents and trailers, offering local residents the opportunity to browse for complimentary groceries, as well as secondhand clothing, books, and toys. They can also receive free services such as haircuts, acupuncture, and traditional Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage therapy.

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Individuals have the opportunity to pack a plastic container with various non-perishable goods such as noodles, rice, canned tomatoes, and locally grown produce like lion’s mane mushrooms, broccoli, turmeric, and ulu. While a few items have limits (one avocado, four oranges, one taro, one piece of ginger), individuals are able to return daily. In the months between October and December of 2023, nearly 25,000 individuals, including returning customers, were provided with this service.

Kekona stated that it is important for the traumatized community to rebuild in order to improve their quality of life in Lahaina. Otherwise, the situation could worsen.

The groceries at the Nāpili hub are paid for by donations, and this has also helped several farmers who previously supplied hotels and restaurants in Lahaina stay afloat. About 150 people still come every day, some who lost everything, others who’ve been indirectly affected.

Alfredo Rotaquio, aged 72, and his wife Marivic, aged 58, were stuck inside their car as they watched their town burn. The car had run out of gas, leaving them unable to escape. The fire destroyed the condo they had been renting, along with 2,200 other structures. Unfortunately, the mall where Rotaquio was employed as a security guard was also engulfed in flames.

After one month, he secured another job in the security field and also found a room in Nāpili. However, the rent for the new place is 30% more expensive than their previous residence.

Rotaquio explained that due to lack of insurance, we must replace all that we have lost. These groceries are crucial in helping us make ends meet, as he stocked up on items such as tropical fruits, green plantains, plump Asian eggplants, and a dozen eggs.

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A recent survey from the University of Hawaii’s Maui wildfire exposure study found that one out of every three fire survivors are facing severe or moderate challenges in obtaining enough healthy food due to financial constraints.

The percentage of food insecurity among the surveyed group of over 200 survivors of the fire is about 50% higher than the rate among residents of Maui before the fire. This increase is a result of the ongoing economic challenges, as 58% of those surveyed lost their jobs due to the wildfire. Currently, 24% are unemployed and actively seeking employment, while 74% have experienced a decrease in their household income. Although tourists have returned, many businesses are still facing difficulties.

After the fire, Charles Dapitan, a 37-year-old hotel employee and skilled paintball player, has been staying at the Nāpili hub and offering his services as a volunteer. He has also sacrificed his own small apartment to provide shelter for a family who was displaced by the fire.

“I have always been involved in the tourism industry, but I have come to realize that my community needs me more than the tourists do. Reflecting on our progress since setting up our first tent six months ago, it’s incredible to see how much we have accomplished and we still have the potential to achieve even more.”

Source: theguardian.com